Death In The Afternoon

April 23rd

I'm at the bullfight and it's hot, sitting in the sol, not the sombra. The bullfight starts at 6:30 with 6 bulls and 3 matadors or toreros scheduled to perform. The bullfight has been immortalized in movies and in Ernest Hemingway's book, Death in the Afternoon. Seville's bullring is the Plaza de Toros owned by the Real Maestranza, a group of Seville noble families. Of all the 3 bullfighters, only one is from Spain, Antonio Barrera, from Seville. The other two bullfighters are from other countries, France and Colombia.

Everyone dresses in their best to go to a bullfight, is a primary social event from April to October in Sevilla.

Contrary to popular belief, a bullfight is not a sport in Spain. It's separate from the sports pages in the daily newspaper. The bullfight is also broadcasted live on TV in Seville. It's quite a unique experience, part religion-part dance. The bullfight comes in 3 main acts or terceros. The first act is when a group of men on horses in traditional 17th century come out into the ring and followed by the matadors and their entourages. The 2nd is act begins is when the bull is released into the ring and part of the bullfighter's entourage, stirs up the bull. This is followed by two men on horseback with horses that are padded in case of being gored by the bull. The men or picadors circle the bull before plunging their lance into the neck of the bull. The picadors exit out of the ring for the next and final act. The final act consists of bandilleros and the matador. The bandilleros jobs are to take two wooden, colorful stakes and fearlessly drive them into the neck and back of the bull. This involves precariously following every inch of the bull's movements and leaping to avoid horns. After this, the matador with his signature red cape comes out into the ring.

What separates a good bullfighter from a not so good one is how well the bullfighter can keep up with the bull's movements. Also, the bulls are NOT enraged at the sight of a red cape, they are colorblind and follow movement. These bulls are specifically bred just for the bullfights.

The matadors wear flashy costumes, called the suit of lights, it sparkles and glistens in the sun and in the setting sun. Their steps in the bullring is very pretentious and full of swagger.

You hear chants of Ole! and Bien as the bullfighter and the bull precariously dance back and forth as the cape is whisked back and forth and finally the bull rears his head and the matador plunges his sword in the neck of the bull and bull takes a few last steps and collapses dead on the sand and the bull's body is dragged out of the arena by a team of horses. On to the next bullfight.

If you're lucky and hear the praises from the crowd and the waving of white handkerchiefs, and you see a matador with an oreja or a bull's ear, he has won bullfight and praise for the evening. On to the next bullfight.

That is death in the afternoon.